Historic Formula Ford 2000 Association

I have a leaking bottom brass strainer fitting and despite several efforts including some proprietary thread sealing products and a brand new "Dowety washer" it continues to leak.


Any thoughts are welcome as I've run out of solutions to try for now!



Greg.

BTW I have been meticulously careful NOT to damage the lip seal on the washer.

Is this on a steel sump with a welded/brazed insert? If so, check the leak isn't through the joint rather than the thread.

Make sure the faces compressing the dowry seal are flat, smooth (ie. no burrs, grooves, etc.) and that the seal is being compressed evenly all round.

Can you post a photo of the offending area?

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.


If it stops raining today I'll nip out to the truck and see if I can get an image..

Well,

I was out with the car at the weekend and there were no leaks with the engine running. It didn't leak all day and there were no drips visible between sessions. Clearly the scavenge side of the pump is emptying the valley in the sump very effectively!

It only leaked when left overnight.

I think I have discovered what has been causing the sump to leak.

The brass threaded fitting with the strainer is screwed into a steel "cut in half nut" that has been bronze welded into the valley of the sump.

Because it is a nut and not a machined fitting, it is not flat on the face that butts up against the dowety washer.

The original nut that has been used as a fitting, has a beveled "lead in" on the thread. No doubt very handy on its original purpose as a nut.

The oil is seeping out around the threads and escaping out around the metal part of the dowety washer. None of the rubber seal is in contact with the face of the "Nut" due to the bevel.

The face of the nut is also covered in small dents and burrs where no doubt the nut has rattled around in the stores before it was cut down to make the threaded part of the oil strainer fitting.

So, I have very carefully drained out the sump pan and completely cleaned off all of the oil from the threaded part involved.

Once I was completely sure that the metal parts were chemically clean and dry, I have carefully coated the threads with "Loctite 542" and reassembled the fittings.

I guess time will tell how successful this option will prove to be!


Wish me luck!

if you still have an issue get someone to make you a soft aluminium washer (or you may be able to buy one easily enough) for under the head of the strainer bolt this should do the job

Good luck

Benn

Thanks Benn,

I really appreciate the idea!



Normally our cars are presentable and don't leak oil.

It's been a bit embarrassing to be honest!

Greg,