Historic Formula Ford 2000 Association

As a first-time Pinto builder, can anybody tell me where you pick up the oil pressure? Also is there a trick to fitting the dizzy, does it need to align with anything of should it be fitted prior to the cambelt to allow a little slack on the auxiliary gear?

Oil pressure take off is at the back of the block by the flywheel, on the same side of the engine as the oil filter. I think from memory 1/8 npt thread. As far a fitting the dissy just as the haynes manual, which is actually quite a helpful guide to rebuilding, from memory timed at 35 degrees at 5000rpm.

Enjoy

Mark

Check out the best position for the wires to come out of your dizzy, the clips to hold cap on and the vacumn 'appendage' (if you have left that on) in relation to the installation in your car. The physical dizzy body can go anywhere in the full 360 degree range but certain positions may be either impractical or more desirable for your installation (space is tight in these race cars!).

As long as you have a clearly marked TDC indication on your flywheel and mechanically time the cam shaft up to the TDC indicator in the cam wheel, then dropping the dizzy in is relatively easy.

The Bosch type have a mark on the body to line up with the mark in the end of the rotor arm and this sets the timing at factory (approx 10 degrees) which will get the engine running and allow you to use a strobe to set the far more aggressive race timing (35 -39 probably).
One image of the mark I found on the internet http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/ ... umber1.jpg

So if you have the engine at TDC and you know where you want the dizzy body to physically end up, you can drop it in, see where the rotor arm points (because of the bevelled gears the rotor shaft turns as you engage it), then lift it up slightly, move the rotor arm, drop it down again until it lines up roughly where you want. Then fine tune by moving the body.

I now remove the dizzy if taking an engine out and only put back into a fitted engine due to the constraints when fitting the engine back into the chassis

The rotor goes clockwise so if you want to set the dizzy closer to race spec then when you line up the marks you should then move the body anticlockwise to increase the advance. A difference of about 3-5mm between the physical mark and your new 'imagined' mark should get you right in the ball park eg manufacturer mark to the left (anti clock) 3-5mm from where your rotor arm is pointing - all at TDC). When you have got the engine fully race timed it is worth taking the cap off and making your own mark so you can return to this approx setting easily in the paddock during a panic re-time of the engine.

Thanks for the help guys, it is a Motorcraft dizzy with a modified advance curve and I did manage to get it in by taking off the cambelt and jiggling the idler pulley to help the gears mesh, it still needed a bit of persuasion and bad language but eventually went in okay but the body is still tight to rotate. I assume it must have engaged on the oil pump drive. I did position it so that I lose as little skin as possible removing the clips. I also found the oil pressure pick-up position and ended up having a hybrid fitting made as I couldn't match the threads with any adapters. You are correct about restricted space, it was an awful job to try and adjust the clutch activating rod, and there appear to be some alien tubes in the engine bay which suggest several other installations. Will post some pics soon from 3rd world Africa!

The Motorcraft is a much wider dizzy body than the Bosch one, funnily enough I put my emergency, emergency, emergency (last resort spare!) Motorcraft one in at Brands on Saturday and it worked a treat! - skinned my hands as well!! We don't have the oil pumps in ours (dry sumped) so the dizzy only locates on the bevelled gear of the jack shaft driven off the cam belt. You had to locate into the small square drive to the oil pump as well)

Got it all sussed at the end of the day and everything turns okay. Stayed wet sump due to cost/simplicity but the baffles in the sump and the pick-up are a work of art. Only really got the carb and exhaust left, anything I should know here? Ah Brands Hatch, spent many happy hours there, sadly the nearest circuit to me now is Kyalami, which goes under the hammer at the end of the month, no place for a race track in a burgeoning residential area, sad.